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Glycolic Acid - Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA's)

I was just reading that in a seven week study by the University of Pennsylvania, at-home facial peels containing glycolic acid at a concentration of 10% was as effective as a 20 – 35 % professional glycolic acid regimen, but less irritating. (Source: ICMAD, June, 2006)

I have been using a 10% glycolic acid treatment, Renouveau, for 10 years and I can definitely see and feel a difference. And I have tried many on the market. Some were very irritating and burned my skin. Others didn’t do very much.

I have also tried RetinA and Renova and many other topicals and pills to control breakouts. They were too strong and I burned my skin often. With Renouveau, I can see a difference with my sun spots lightening, skin feeling smoother, and breakouts going away over night. It’s safe and gentle, yet effective. I would highly recommend as a way to improve skin texture and control acne.

Some interesting facts about AHA Action - Glycolic Acid Treatment

Extensive research into the role that glycolic acid plays in the prevention of fine lines, blemishes and hyperpigmentation has allowed the introduction of a whole new category of skin products.

Glycolic acid is one of a family of five acids referred to as "alpha hydroxy acids." These acids, commonly labeled AHA's include citric acid (oranges, lemons), lactic acid (sour milk), malic acid (apples), tartaric acid (fruits and grape wine) and finally glycolic acid.

Glycolic acid, extracted from sugar cane, is the most effective for cosmetic use.
Glycolic acid cosmetic formulations have been found to address the following major skin concerns:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Oily prone skin
• Acne prone skin
• Pigmentation problems (age, sun spots)
• Dry, cracked skin
• In-grown hair

Of particular interest to many users is glycolic acids unique ability to loosen the natural "glue-like" substance that holds the outer layer of the epidermis together. As we age, or during times of poor health and hormonal upset, this glue binds too tightly, and the cells of the epidermis become too thick. This can make the skin appear dry, rough, scaly, dull or pigmented.

When glycolic acid treatments are applied to such skins, this "glue-like" substance becomes loosened, and the thick layer is sloughed away. As a result, the skin looks softer, younger and ultimately healthier.

Japanese Green Tea and Other Very Effective Ingredients (found in Renouveau AHA cream)

AHA's must be used in high percentages and low pH levels in order to achieve success. It is also known that this combination creates a skin irritation or prickly feeling. Japanese Green Tea is known to contain active chemicals to suppress inflammation and irritation, as well as increase the SPF factor of known sunscreens.

Calendula, Horsetail, and Witch Hazel are combined with Japanese Green Tea to form a powerful complex. Calendula (also known as Marigold) is an anti-inflammatory used in rehydrating skin. Horsetail produces collagen and elastin which helps keep the skin firm. Witch Hazel is a natural astringent and also anti-inflammatory in nature.

Another very effective ingredient used in the AHA products is hydroquinone, which is known for its ability to reduce its appearance of hyperpigmentation (age spots, freckles, and uneven coloring.)

The Renouveau Treatment in the GIELLA product line contains 10% glycolic acid and a 3.8 pH level with an SPF 8.

Prior to Prescribing AHA Products

The success of AHA's depend on their active nature. But as with any active ingredient, caution must be taken when recommending or prescribing their use.
Occasional stinging may be experienced when applying a product containing glycolic acid or other Alpha Hydroxy Acids. This is not an allergic reaction and is usually no cause for alarm. This is quite normal.

If you experience any redness, irritation or excessive peeling or flakiness, advise them to temporarily stop the application. When skin has returned to normal, then begin application on a gradual basis. When skin has adjusted, they can increase frequency of application.

Some medication increases the possibility of irritant or allergic reactions.
Previous treatment by harsh products or medical routines may lower the skin's capacity to cope with the action of AHA's.

Clients should be cautioned not to use any scrubs, abrasive products or other exfoliants unless they are prescribed for you. Doing so could contribute to further irritation and/or peeling.

Retin-A Users: Fruit Acids (AHA's) can be used in conjunction with Retin-A with outstanding results. If you are using Retin-A, products containing Alpha-Hydroxy Acids should not be introduced until the initial side effects that usually accompany the use of Retin-A have been fully accommodated.

If you are likely to be exposed to the sun while using AHA products, a sun block must be advised to avoid irritation.

AHA's should not be used on a skin that has been over exposed to the sun until the skin has returned to normal.

For external use only. Avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. Keep out of reach of small children.

Beauty News NYC Interview - January 10, 2007

What shade of Red is best for me…….

Q: Is there a red to suit every woman's skin tone or is this a myth?
A: Red is color that everyone can wear. It depends on the value (light to dark), undertone (cool or warm) and intensity (brightness or saturation) of the color. For example, red can be light or medium in value rather than typically perceived as dark. It can be muted with brown, or it can be golden. Based on your hair, eye and skin color, the correct shade of red can be determined. Also, the coverage level is important too. Red is great to wear as a sheer gloss or lipstick for just a hint of berry. Or coupled with a soft gold shimmer...


Q: Are there any guidelines to picking a red based on hair and skin color?


HAIR COLOR: Blonde

Blonde, Pale to olive skin skin = Light,clear red = Coral
Blonde, Rosy skin = Clear, vivid red = Claret
Blonde, Golden skin = Light, warm red = Ginger
Blonde, Dark skin = Medium red = Maroon

HAIR COLOR: Red

Red, Pale to olive skin = Light brown red = Paprika
Red, Rosy skin = Medium vivid red = Rose
Red, Golden skin = Medium golden red = Cinnamon
Red, Dark skin = Medium brown red = Garnet

HAIR COLOR: BROWN

Brown, Pale to olive skin = Brown red = Cranberry
Brown, Rosy skin = Deep vivid red = Scarlet
Brown, Golden skin = Deep golden red = Mango
Brown, Dark skin = Deep bright red = Burgundy

HAIR COLOR: BLACK

Black, Pale to olive skin = Jewel tone = Ruby
Black, Rosy skin = Dark vivid red = Crimson
Black, Golden skin = High contrast golden red = Tomato
Black, Dark skin = Dark bright red = Cherry

Top 6 Products Sold in 2006 at GIELLA custom blend cosmetics

1. Bendels Blackout Nail enamel (Item # NPB67)

2. Beaming Lightswitch Highlighter (Item # COSLS3)

3. Spark Lip Gloss (Item # LGW51 with Chunky White Gold Shimmer)

4. i-dazzle Eyeshadow (Item # GJR51)

5. Mario Pinched My Lips Lipstick (Item # LC1056 with
Chunky Yellow Gold Shimmer)

6. Hope Creamease Cheek Color (Item # COSCE19)

Interview with www.hellodollface.blogspot.com

Interview with www.hellodollface.blogspot.com - January 5, 2007


What inspires you?
1. People. I like to observe what different cultures wear, eat; how they spend their leisure days and what is most important to them.
2. Social factors. Trends in leisure, education, jobs, travel, family
3. Entertainment. Movies, theater, music


Where did you get this great idea for women to customize their own makeup?

Customization is the new standard – from jeans, fragrance, coffee, jewelry and handbags. People know exactly what they want and they want it quickly and at a reasonable price. They are tired of spending money on products that are “almost” right and sit in their drawers.
Customization is empowering; it gives people control over their purchases.
I feel very good about providing products and services to people who are truly satisfied. It’s rewarding.


How did you go about creating this line- were you sitting there one day and then decided to go ahead and make your own cosmetics...?

It was basically a continuation of what I had been doing at Vidal Sassoon. When they exited the cosmetic business, my position as National Sales Manager was eliminated. I had so much invested:

1. 12 years in formulating colors and products
2. Experience with chemists and packaging suppliers
3. Developing a reputation as a makeup artist
4. Product development
5. Expertise in marketing
6. 3000 clients whose custom blend formulas I had on record and who were extremely loyal

I just finished my MBA and felt very comfortable with business knowledge. I had a window of opportunity to take on this venture.


If you had to design a perfume, how would it smell and what would you call it?

It would smell sexy, sophisticated yet gentle. I know it would have some notes of citrus, amber and rose in it. And, for the name, it would be Rose, after my grandmother who was a major influence in my life.


What do you want people to know about you?


I love meeting new people and making new friends. I also like making people feel good about themselves and put a smile on their face.

What else do you have in store for your cosmetics line?

Custom skin care and custom fragrance with pure perfume oils.

Interview with Diane Magazine sold at Curves gyms

1) Why is spring the perfect time to start fresh with your manicure and pedicure routine?

Spring is always a welcome after the tough winter season. Winter days have fewer hours of sunlight, require layers of clothing to keep warm, and calls for shoveling and defrosting the car before we can drive it. Spring is a time to jump out and embrace the sunshine, longer days and playful activities that go along with it. The birds chirping and the aroma of fresh cut grass and flowers blooming – such a glorious time! And certainly hands and feet are more exposed; so they must look perfectly groomed.

2) What's the best way to get your hands and feet back in pretty shape after the winter?

• Manicures and pedicures are a must. I suggest manicures every 7 to 10 days and pedicures every 14 – 21 days.
• Paraffin wax treatments are a great way to quickly get your skin and cuticles soft and submerged with hydration.
• Use cuticle oil daily to hydrate cuticles.
• Before you go to bed massage your hands and feet with lotion. Try mixing some lavender drops in with the lotion for aromatherapy - it’s stimulating & antiseptic. Don’t forget the area around your ankles. This is a commonly forgotten area and looks “cracked” if it’s dry.
• Sleep with thin cotton socks to retain the moisture in your feet; or thin cotton gloves for your hands
• Make sure you are taking vitamins that will help your hair, skin and nails rejuvenate

3) Why is it important to take special care of the skin on your hands and feet?

Everyone’s looking! There are so many fabulous sandals to wear this season and there is nothing worse than great shoes with un-groomed feet. It’s like unruly brows with great makeup; stained teeth with a pretty smile – it goes hand-in-hand. And it makes you feel good. Looking at beautiful hands and feet is pleasing to the eye. Also, manicures and pedicures are very relaxing. So why not treat yourself.
4) How should women go about picking the right colors of polish for them?

Depending on your hair, eye and skin color you should pick either light, medium or deep tones.

For light blond, very light eyes – pick pastel, light shades of color
For blond, light to medium red to light brown/grey hair with hazel, brown, blue or green eyes – pick medium shades of color; not too light and not too dark.
For dark brown, silver grey/white with hazel, brown, blue or green eyes – pick deeper colors with a higher contrast to your skin tone.

5) Any tips on how to break women out of polish-color ruts they may find themselves in? (like always wearing the same shade of pale pink and being afraid of trying something new)

Try a new “spin” on a color. If you always wear pink, try a pink with some gold or white shimmer, or even some soft glitter. Texture can be fun too. Or try something funkier on your toes - bright fuchsia pink with your pale pink on your fingers.
Or try colors that are similar in value; a pale peach.

6) What are the most exciting color trends for spring?
Either pastel pink, orange or coral; or bright pink. All of the colors are dusted with white; pastels. So think fleshy pink and peach. Also, the new black nail trend from the fall has turned into a brilliant navy with a slight silver sheen…it looks great on toes!

7) How should women combine polish colors for their hands and their feet?
If you have a neutral fresh manicure or pale white or pink on your hands, you can do anything on your toes.

If you have a color on your hands, such as red, coral or pink, it’s nice to compliment it on your feet too. Generally, I would match the same color or go with a deeper shade of the color on the toes. For example, a peach on your hands combined with a brighter orange or rust on your toes. Depth is better below (on the toes).

8) Any other hints/tips about manis, pedis, polish I haven't asked about that you'd like to share?

To keep your manicure looking fresh, buy a bottle of the nail enamel. Every other morning, apply a little to the tips of the nails where it first fades away. Apply a thin coat of Nailtique or clear polish. It keeps your manicure looking as if it did on the first day
Always carry the Cuticle Oil Pen…it will surely save you! Apply it to toes and hands that do not look as freshly done in one quick stroke. It conditions the nails, makes cuticles look soft and makes the polish shiny. An instant quick-fix!